The Graffiti in Plovdiv you can no longer see! (Part 1)
March 28, 2025
There are places in the world where history feels close. And then there’s the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis—where you don’t just feel the past, you sit in it.
Perched on the slope between two of Plovdiv’s hills, this marble Roman theatre has seen emperors rise, empires fall, and centuries of silence settle over its once-bustling stage. Built in the 1st century AD, likely during the reign of Emperor Domitian, the theatre was a jewel of the Roman city of Philippopolis. Back then, it could hold up to 7,000 people, who came to see plays, debates, and musical performances. For a time, it was the very heart of public life in the city.
But in the 4th century, the theatre was damaged—possibly by an earthquake—and eventually buried and forgotten. Plovdiv grew above it, layer by layer, while the marble seats and columns waited quietly beneath the surface.
That silence lasted nearly 1,700 years.
In the 1970s, parts of the theatre were rediscovered. What followed was one of Bulgaria’s most extraordinary archaeological restorations. Since then, the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis has become one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, hosting concerts, operas, and festivals from around the world.
And yet, something has always been missing.
Until now.
A Stage Reborn – the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis Comes Alive Again
From April 3 to 5, 2025, the Ancient Theatre will finally return to its roots—not just as a monument, but as a living stage for ancient drama. The inaugural EX MACHINA Festival will bring actors, artists, and audiences from Bulgaria, Greece, and Italy together in a celebration of classical theatre, performed in the very setting it was made for.
For the first time in seventeen centuries, the Ancient Theatre of Plovdiv will echo once more with the voices of Euripides, Ovid, and Orpheus. The marble will glow under the setting sun. And the past will speak—clear, bold, and alive.
What Is EX MACHINA?
EX MACHINA is more than a festival. It’s a time machine. For three days this April, it will transport Plovdiv back to an era when theatre wasn’t just entertainment—it was ritual, education, and civic life rolled into one.
Taking place from April 3 to 5, the festival breathes new life into the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis with a series of performances inspired by classical antiquity. The focus isn’t just on reenacting the past—it’s on reimagining it through a modern lens, while staying rooted in the powerful traditions of ancient drama.
The name EX MACHINA itself is a clever nod to the theatrical device deus ex machina—the god who appears by machine to resolve impossible situations in ancient plays. It’s a fitting symbol for a festival that aims to bring old myths, forgotten rituals, and timeless questions back into the spotlight.
The programme gathers performers from Bulgaria, Greece, and Italy—the very cultures that helped shape the foundations of European civilization. The lineup includes both professional productions and youth theatre troupes, placing new voices alongside seasoned ones in a shared celebration of classical art.
But this isn’t just about staging old texts. EX MACHINA is about energy. It’s about presence. It’s about the magic that happens when ancient words are spoken under open skies, from a stage where history quite literally surrounds you.
Festival Highlights to Watch For
EX MACHINA’s programme is rich, international, and full of surprises. Whether you’re a lifelong lover of ancient literature or just curious to witness something unforgettable, this festival has something for you.
Each day from April 3 to 5, the afternoons belong to the youth performances. From 14:00 to 18:00, the stage of the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis will host young talents from Bulgaria, Greece, and Italy. These are not just school plays—these are passionate, daring reimaginings of ancient stories by the next generation of artists. There’s something deeply moving about seeing young voices bring ancient characters back to life.
Then, as the sun begins to set, it’s time for the evening spectacles.
On April 3 at 19:00, Bulgarian actor Leonid Yovchev takes the stage in Metamorphoses, a one-man show directed by Ani Vaseva and inspired by Ovid’s timeless tales of transformation. Expect a poetic, hypnotic journey through myths that still echo in today’s world.
The next evening, April 4, brings two powerful performances. First, at 18:00, is the Greek production Anamnesis — a reflective and atmospheric piece from Athens that explores memory, identity, and the weight of history. Then, at 19:30, comes Orpheus and Eurydice, a striking reinterpretation of one of the oldest love stories ever told. Drawing on both ancient and Bulgarian texts, it promises to be haunting, lyrical, and deeply emotional.
Each performance is a chance to experience ancient drama the way it was meant to be seen: under the open sky, on marble seats, surrounded by centuries of stone and story.
And the best part? Admission is completely free. For the full programme and up-to-date event details, check out the official EX MACHINA Festival event on Facebook.
A Modern Dialogue with the Past
EX MACHINA doesn’t end with the final bow on stage. On April 5, the festival shifts from performance to conversation—with a unique gathering at one of Plovdiv’s most extraordinary locations: the Bishop’s Basilica of Philippopolis.
Here, ancient mosaics will set the stage for a series of short presentations and a roundtable discussion unlike any other. The theme? The ties between antiquity and modern life—from archaeology to media, from myth to cinema, from ancient machines to today’s technology.
The session brings together a powerful mix of artists, thinkers, and scholars. Among the guests are actor Samuel Finzi, director Javor Gardev, writer Georgi Tenev, theatre-maker Ani Vaseva, and classical philologist Assoc. Prof. Nikolay Gochev, along with other notable voices from Bulgaria’s cultural landscape.
Together, they’ll explore questions that reach far beyond the stage:
Can modern technology ever match the magic of ancient imagination?
Is the “machine” a tool of clarity—or deception?
What does it mean to search for truth in stories thousands of years old?
This roundtable isn’t just an academic add-on. It’s an essential part of EX MACHINA’s mission—to spark connection, curiosity, and conversation across generations. It reminds us that ancient theatre was never just about performance. It was about philosophy, politics, society—and the eternal human need to ask “why?”
Visiting Plovdiv During EX MACHINA
If you’ve been thinking about visiting Plovdiv, this is the perfect moment.
From April 3 to 5, the city will hum with the spirit of something truly special. The EX MACHINA Festival isn’t just an event—it’s an experience. And it all takes place right in the heart of the Old Town, where cobbled streets and Roman ruins live side by side.
All main performances are held at the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis, one of the most breathtaking open-air venues in Europe. The final day’s talks and discussions will take place at the nearby Bishop’s Basilica of Philippopolis, another site steeped in history and beauty.
The best part? Every event is free to attend. No tickets, no queues, no barriers—just show up and be part of something unforgettable.
If you’re planning your trip, give yourself time to explore beyond the festival. Plovdiv in spring is a dream: the hills are green, the cafes are buzzing, and every corner seems to hold a story. Whether you’re wandering through Roman ruins, sipping local wine, or chatting with friendly locals, the city has a way of making you feel at home.
And during EX MACHINA, that feeling only grows stronger.
Where Ancient Echoes Meet Modern Voices
In a city layered with time, it’s rare to witness a moment that feels truly historic. But EX MACHINA is exactly that—a return, a revival, and a reminder of just how alive the past can be.
To see ancient theatre performed on the very stones where it once began is more than a cultural event. It’s a kind of time-travel. A shared experience that collapses the centuries between us and those who once gathered under the same sky, listening to the same stories.
Plovdiv has always been a place where old and new intertwine. But during EX MACHINA, that connection becomes electric. The voices of ancient poets blend with modern ideas. The applause of today joins the whispers of history. And for a few remarkable days, one of Europe’s oldest theatres becomes young again.
While you’re here, don’t miss the chance to dive even deeper into Plovdiv’s story. Join Free Plovdiv Tour, the city’s most beloved walking tour, to uncover the fascinating layers of history behind the Roman ruins, Revival-era houses, and vibrant street life. During the festival, tours run daily at 11:00 and 14:00, giving you the perfect opportunity to explore the city’s rich past—then step right into a living piece of it at the theatre.
So if you find yourself in Bulgaria in the next 3 days — come. Sit in the marble seats. Watch the sun set over the rooftops. Walk the ancient streets with us. And let yourself be carried into a world where myths still breathe, and theatre still matters.
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